Why Lombok is now the perfect side trip from Bali

Bali has long been the destination of choice for many Australians. Given its accessibility, affordability and balmy tropical climate, not to mention the warmth and distinctive culture of its people, it’s easy to see why.

Yet there’s another Indonesian island blessed with centuries-old heritage, wild volcano hikes, better beaches and emerald rice fields stretching far to the horizon right next door – Lombok, and it’s finally getting its moment in the sun.

Serangan beach in the south of Lombok.

Though much less developed than its famous neighbour, that’s a key part of its appeal, with many describing the island as ‘like Bali used to be’. Yet it’s delightfully different too.

Best of all, it’s only a 45 minute flight from Bali’s Denpasar Airport, making it an easy side trip or alternate destination for travellers looking to explore beyond the well-trodden Balinese hotspots of Ubud and Canggu.

Boni Beach is part of a new breed of hotels popping up across the island.

Of course, surfers and backpackers are already up to speed on Lombok’s appeals. And though accommodation was once limited to the basic end of the scale, a wave of new upmarket offerings are now sweeping across its shores.

Add to this a significant tourism investment from the government, as well as an increased presence on the global stage thanks partly to the debut of its Mandalika MotoGP street circuit in 2022, and it’s clear Lombok is no longer being slept on.

Among the newest additions is Boni Beach – a boutique escape only 100 metres from Serangan beach in Lombok’s south. Opened in June 2023, it joined a small group of luxe hotels and resorts including The Oberoi and Pullman Lombok Mandalika Beach.

Margaritas and martinis are just the start of Boni Beach's cocktail menu.

However, unlike the 50 to 200-plus rooms of those above, Boni Beach sits at the opposite end of the spectrum with just eight rooms, three bungalows and two four-bedroom villas.

Each one is imbued with a heightened sense of style and sophistication, not unlike you’d find at a beachside hotel in Noosa or Byron Bay. Surfboards are frequently sighted too.

Every design detail is considered and intentional.

That ambience of barefoot luxury is something owners Dylan Maley and Beth Lepley – originally from Melbourne – worked hard to create in collaboration with Balinese architecture firm Design Assembly, and there are nods to the local area too.

Grassy thatched roofs inspired by Lombok’s Sasak architecture crown its bungalows and villas, with the intricate tie-work holding them in place not only visible from inside but providing a strong contrast against modern lines of timber and stone.

Natural textures, grassy roofs and extensive nod to the local style.

Palm-filled gardens and a deep swimming pool lined with umbrellas are directly outside your door, followed by a rooftop bar and restaurant plating up locally-inspired fare such as beef rendang tacos, backed up by an extensive cocktail menu.

When asked why the couple chose Lombok over Bali, Beth says the slower pace, Sasak heritage and natural beauty guided their relocation in 2021, alongside the chance to help shape a more positive future for Lombok through tourism.

Dietician turned chef Maley oversees the restaurant's menus.

More than simply expats running the show, Dylan notes many locals share a similar goal, having witnessed both the positive and negative sides of Bali’s rapid development.

“Lombok is in its initial phase of development,” he explains. “There’s lots of excitement, with more Indonesians and expats working together to build quality experiences”.

Rice terraces at Mas Mas Village - accessible on a tour from the hotel.

“Our staff are all getting this first opportunity to walk into an economy that supports the growth of their island, and they can see why tourism is going to be beneficial.”

Among those benefits will be improved infrastructure. As past visitors can attest, that’s an area lagging well behind Bali. Pavements are few and far between, and there’s little public transport to speak of. However, that’s a drawcard in itself.

It’s adventurous without pushing you too far outside your comfort zone, local interactions are still warm and genuine, and regional delicacies such as sate rembiga (beef satay) and ayam bakar taliwang (spicy grilled chicken) remain deliciously authentic.

Fishing boats at Kuta-Lombok, a tourist hub in the island's south.

Surfing is of course a bit part of the hotel’s appeal, with nearby Serangan delivering prime conditions for beginners and advanced surfers, but it isn’t the only experience on offer. Scuba diving and hiking should also be high on the list.

There’s also a free shuttle to Selong Belanak beach (ideal at sunset when reggae beats from driftwood bars float through the air), plus guided tours to communities such as Mas Mas village, which is working to empower its residents’ through tourism.

Reaching the summit of Mt Rinjani is challenging, but worthwhile.

“Exploring the island, eating at small warungs, doing tours or visiting waterfalls and villages makes a huge difference,” Dylan adds. “By doing that, you put money directly into Lombok.”

“It’s not about feeling like you’re donating. It’s simply getting out and exploring, helping us grow into a more sophisticated and diverse destination, which will in turn give the local people more opportunities to grow their own expression of their culture.”

Sunset at Selong Belanak Beach.

With regular Wings Air and Citilink flights from Bali to Lombok International Airport, as well as Garuda Indonesia and Super Air Jet flights from Jakarta, getting to Lombok is a breeze.

And on the ground, opportunities to explore and disconnect from the Western world appear at every turn. Whether staying beachside in Serangan, among the crowds of Senggigi, or scaling Mount Rinjani with a local guide, it’s paradise, waiting to be discovered.

Golden hour lives up to its name.

The writer stayed as a guest of Boni Beach.