Restaurant revolution: why Brisbane is now a city worth biting into

Like a fine bottle of shiraz, Brisbane keeps getting better with age. Luxury hotels continue to stake a claim; innovative bars forever seek new ways to tantalise and surprise. Yet if there’s one aspect which truly deserves a moment in the spotlight, it’s the restaurants.

From a fusion of indigenous ingredients and art to cooking exclusively over flame, the Sunshine State capital is now a mecca for creative chefs and restaurateurs, with an evolving food culture pushing the scene in new and unexpected directions.

Ben Williamson, co-owner and chef at the hatted restaurant Agnes in Fortitude Valley, believes Brisbane’s culinary renaissance is thanks to a renewed local confidence and pride in the city.

Chef Ben Williamson in the kitchen at Agnes Fortitude Valley.

The transformation has been taking place for over a decade, but really took off in the last two.

“Brisbane is now, more than ever, a city that is confident in itself and its identity,” Williamson reveals, while also citing the relatively low impact of the pandemic and ensuing migration from Sydney and Melbourne as other potential reasons for the dining renaissance.

Located on the river at South Bank, Otto Ristorante celebrates people, place and la dolce vita.

It’s a feeling echoed by Kevin Puglisevich, F&B Manager and Wine Director at the acclaimed Bacchus Restaurant, a fine dining mecca housed within the Rydges South Bank.

“Brisbane was always destined to be the next culinary city… it just took a while longer than expected,” he says. “The quality in the dining scene has always been there; the difference between Brisbane and the bigger cities is it’s always been humble.”

Kevin Puglisevich, Food & Beverage Manager at Bacchus Restaurant South Bank.

The lockdowns of 2020-2021 are another key reason for the city’s culinary rebirth, in Puglisevich’s opinion.

“The pandemic has helped us appreciate our own backyard, resulting in venues opening due to demand. From an operator perspective, it’s pushed us to follow our dreams. Our freedom is far too valuable to waste on mediocre food.”

Travellers are taking note as well. March data from Brisbane Economic Development Agency showed the city’s visitation was up 47% on the previous 12 months, while also pushing past the neighbouring Gold Coast to the south in spending.

Indulge in delicious Cantonese dishes at Stanley, on the waterfront of Howard Smith Wharves.

The dining hubs of James Street in Fortitude Valley, Howard Smith Wharves, and Fish Lane at South Bank are overflowing with eclectic dining options, from cheap and cheerful bites to multi-course degustations that deserve to be savoured.

“The Calile Hotel is absolutely world class and, in conjunction with the James Street Precinct, really has led the charge in Brisbane’s recent evolution and been instrumental in setting Fortitude Valley apart from its grimy nightclub roots,” adds Williamson.

At Agnes, which debuted in the Valley in August 2020, a back to basics philosophy centred around a woodfire oven and two charcoal pits – no electricity – has captivated local palates, picking up a Good Food Guide Chefs Hat in the process.

Agnes is built around an open kitchen with wood fire and two charcoal pits.

Beyond his four other venues, Williamson recommends nabbing a table at Essa, adding “Phil’s food is really sexy and delicious, and never disappoints”, along with Otto and Stanley, which he describes as being great for a higher level of sophistication.

“In both places you can really feel the confidence in Will and Louis’ cooking respectively,” Williamson divulges. “Neither are trying to reinvent the wheel, just deliver exceptional, honest and seamless experiences.”

Although a few years old now, Birrunga Gallery in the city also deserves a mention. The First Nations art gallery – offering bush tucker-infused cafe dining, art tours and workshops – is a multisensory journey into the local indigenous culture.

Otto Osteria has an emphasis on casual bites, cocktails and stellar views.

Further afield, new arrivals include Butler Wine Bar in South Brisbane, an intimate 30-seater from the team behind Lune Croissanterie; French-infused Hervé’s Restaurant and Bar in Albion; and The Lodge Bar & Dining in Fortitude Valley, an offshoot of Kiwi fashion label Rodd & Gunn.

For Puglisevich, a great restaurant needs to satisfy all five senses. With that in mind, Maeve Wine Bar – focusing on “quality rather than the Instagrammable” – and Restaurant Dan Arnold are must-tries… besides Bacchus, of course.

“I believe a restaurant should produce food that cannot be made at home, which is where the value lies in fine dining,” Puglisevich explains.

Butler is described as 'rooted in European bar tradition with a modern Australian outlook.'

“With artistic dishes, emotional service, elegance and outstanding wine pairings, Dan Arnold is a restaurant that respects the role of great service which provides the perfect seasoning to a diner's experience.”

Although long dismissed, Brisbane is now a city worth biting into, with Bacchus and Agnes just two of the restaurants at the forefront of its reinvention. The hardest part is just fitting it all in.